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latest picture: June 12, 2009

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148  On June 9th, 2009, Emil is driving

our LandCruiser onto the ferry „Fotu-o-

Samoa II“ that will sail in 1½ hours to

the Samoan sister island of Savaii

 149  The two girls make themselves

comfortable on the bridge of their

pick-up for the choppy sea journey

150  Upolu – the main island –

is bidding farewell

 

Exactly one week later, at 2pm, we are boarding the ferry to the island of Savaii. With the ‘Giant African Snail’ spread on the island of Upolu but not yet on Savaii, our LandCruiser is sprayed by the quarantine before embarking. The crossing is short and bumpy: After 1½ hours, we already approach the port of Salelolaga in the Southeast of the island.

151  Two of the traditional, mostly very

simple “Beach Fale“ that can be rented all

around the island for approximately 60 Tala

per person (= US$ 23), including breakfast

and dinner. Here on the East coast in Lano

152  Peaceful tropical scenery

along the East coast near Lano

153  “Beach Fales“ – here near

Faga on the East coast –

guarantee an authentic Samoan

accommodation experience

 

It is mid afternoon, when we slowly drive along the palm fringed East coast to the North. It looks more rural than in Upolu, less populated and wilder. Now and then, a small community pops up with an impressive church – like everywhere – towering at its center and some breezy beach fales lining the shore. Arriving at the Northern tip, we drive past a vast field of old lava flow, reminder of the eruptions of Mt. Matavanu between 1905 and 1911, where fresh green plants started to grow again.

154  Coconut palm trees fringe a

stretch of the East coast near Faga

155  The shrine in Puapua at the

East coast with Maria and child Jesus

is protected by a “fale”-shaped roof

156  On the Northeastern corner

lies a lava field between Mauga and

Saleaula, scattered with green plants.

It is witness of the Mt. Matavanu

eruptions between 1905 and 1911

 

We check in at the Boutique-style Beach Resort “Le Lagoto”, situated at one of the Northerly sandy beaches, once more at a reduced rate, arranged by the Ministry of Tourism. Our traditionally built bungalow is spacious, but facing the street, which shows to be not entirely lifeless during the night. Additionally, each morning at 4am we are woken up by the honking local bus that lets passengers know that it is arriving.

157  Another of the impressive

churches is in the village of Salelologa

on the East coast, where the ferry

landing is close by. Mostly there

are several churches in each village

 158  At the evening prayers, the

empty propane tank has the function

of a church bell. The tank is hit with

a stick. At the first strucks of the “bell”,

all activities cease. At the second ones

each family gathers for evening prayer

and at the third time the vesper is over

159  “Fale”-style villages are the

most characteristic feature in Samoa

(North coast near Safai - Fagamalo)

 

At our tropical fruit breakfast at the open air beach restaurant, we meet Andrea and Frank with their two children Sarah and Roger – Germans, who migrated to New Zealand’s South Island three years ago. We connect immediately and it feels good to be able to talk animatedly about things of mutual interest. Emil is absorbed in such an extent in the conversation, that at 9am I have to remind him that actually we want to surround the only 659 sq.mi. small island today as the day looks promising with blue skies and sun.

160  A rainbow appears over the

restaurant of „Le Lagoto Beach Resort”

in Fagamalo on the North coast,

where we spend three nights .....

161  ..... and enjoy every morning

a tropical breakfast consisting of fruits .....

162  ..... and the sunset in the

evening at the swimming pool

 

We head west along a lovely coast with beautiful outlooks to the sea. Grazing horses – still a mean of transport in Savaii – undermine the peaceful rural scene. Then, we approach Cape Mulinuu, the most westerly point of Savaii. Samoan like to promote the idea that this is the most westerly location of the globe where today ends – everything after that being already tomorrow. It’s not exactly like that: The American Midway Islands as well as also the Howland & Baker Islands lay a bit more to the West, apart from the most westerly Aleutian Islands in Alaska that are actually situated already west of the 180° meridian, but have the same time zone as Hawaii – everything sounds pretty complicated!

163  A grave of a departed is

lovingly built in the shape of a

house at the North coast. Graves –

sometimes monumental structures –

are often to be found near the homes

 164  The weathered church

in Safotu at the North coast

has still an original character

165  We are driving through a taro

plantation with huge leaves towards

Cape Mulinuu, the most westerly

point of Savaii. Taro is the main

diet of the Samoan people

 

Emil’s eyes are now fixed more and more to the odometer. Exactly at 655'127.6 km he stops. Why? This funny number is marking our 400’000th driven mile on our around-the-world-journey since October 16th, 1984 (1 mile = 1.609344 km minus 11’390km driven before leaving on October 16th, 1984). Of course, we want to capture this special milestone with a picture and give it a toast. It is wonderful that it happened coincidentally just at this beautiful and famous spot.

166  The North coast direction West

is lush green and very beautiful

167  Natural swimming pools along the

shore are the special feature of Savaii

– partly fresh water, partly sea water

168  „Forgotten” palm covered

islands along the North coast

 

As soon as we head south, the weather changes abruptly and heavy rain starts to fall, hiding every view for many miles. Why do we not stop for a lunch break? The weather might approve in the meantime. But only at the ‘Nuu Black Sand Beach’ in the South we find a place to pull out and eat our picnic: bread, cheese, boiled eggs, ham und fruits, and – as always – accompanied by a big bottle of the local Samoan Vailima beer.

169  We reach Cape Mulinuu,

the most westerly point of Savaii .....

170  ..... where the odometer of our

LandCruiser reaches 655'127.6 km,

what means we accomplished exactly

the 400'000th driven mile of our

journey around the world since

Oct. 16, 1984 (1 mile = 1.609344 km

minus 11'390 km driven before starting)

171  A nostalgic weather beaten

church sits on a beautiful spot near

Falealupo at Cape Mulinuu

 

Our speculation works out even: Soon the skies clear and the sun returns. But time is too short now to backtrack to Cape Suisui to see the famous Alofaaga blowhole at the Southwest corner. It is also too short to visit the Afu Aau waterfall in Palauli in front of us, if we want to be back at our Beach Resort before dusk.

172  The Southwest coast is rough.

Huge waves crash against the

shore at Samata-i-Tai

173  On their way back home,

three curious school

girls stop at our car

174  A traditional thatched house

is nestled between black lava and

tropical green at the Southwest coast

 

However, two days later, we enjoy these two impressive tourist attractions. When we approach the blowhole, the ocean is raging from a close storm; the waves are crashing against the black lava shoreline with a ferocious force, showering our LandCruiser constantly with saltwater. Water fountains skyrocket in the air, falling then like fireworks in cascades back to the sea.

175  The Afu Aau Waterfalls at

Palauli in Southern Savaii are surrounded

by jungle foliage. The biggest fall plunges

into a three meter deep refreshing pool .....

176  ..... that is also fed

by delicate “falls”

177  Two small cascades of the

Afu Aau Falls, which tumble

into the Falealila stream

 

The most exciting performance, however, presents the Alofaaga blowhole itself: With an incredible power, it tosses a jet of water about 200ft into the blue sky – a beautiful spectacle! From this incredible force of nature we head to the peaceful Afu Aau waterfall, nestled in lush tropical foliage.

178  Some remnants of a distant

storm are raging at the rough lava

coast in the South of the island

179  With an incredible power, the

Alofaaga blowhole at Cape Asuisui

near Taga in the South tosses a jet

of water about 200ft. into the air

180  The huge waves crashing

onto the lava coast in the South

produce beautiful water fountains

 

It is a perfect place to say good bye to laid-back Savaii. Two hours later, we are already sailing back to Upolu. The sea is pretty rough; we are sailing also against the waves and are glad when we reach land safely.

181  Two girls doing laundry

where the river drops straight

into the stormy ocean

182  Wind and waves have cut

an arch into the black lava

rocks on the South coast

183  Some remnants of a distant

storm has whipped up the ocean on the

South coast – where are the surfers?

 

The remaining days until our departure spin away: We are sorting out pictures, updating our website and dissolve our temporary household. The closer the 1st of July moves, the sadder we become. Samoa has been three months home away from home. It was a peaceful and happy time on this very beautiful and relaxed island, where on May 8th, we were also able to celebrate our 40th wedding anniversary and on June 7th our 9’000th day on the road around the world.

184  A young boy carries his

heavy coconut load on a

pole over his shoulder

185  Children are always ready

to pose for a picture

186  There is nothing to hide. The

whole household is visible for

everybody at the traditional “Fale”

 

This small dot in the Pacific Ocean with its welcoming people has enriched our lives. When at midnight “MV Lady Naomi” leaves for Pago Pago in American Samoa, we both know that Samoa has captured a very special place in our hearts.

187  We bid farewell to the palm

fringed coastline of Savaii with its

slowly weathering white

church of Salelologa .....

188  ..... where not far away a

new house of God with a red

roof waits to be finished

189  Another white and impressive

church is greeting from the island of

Upolu, while we approaching it in

the West at Mulifanua, close to

the international airport of Faleolo

 

More websites from Samoa:

 

• Pictures from the first part of our Samoa trip: Island of Upolu: Part 1
• Pictures from the second part of our Samoa trip: Island of Upolu: Part 2
• Pictures from the 47th Independece Day in Apia/Upolu on June 1st, 2009

   

Articles in newspapers about us in Samoa:

Article: "Switzerland couple have travelled to 163 countries", Daily Newspaper "Samoa Observer" - April 5, 2009

Article: "World travellers take fond memories", Daily Newspaper "Samoa Observer" - July 1, 2009