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Eastern Europe Map
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- Transnistria Map
Moldova Map
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- latest picture:
September 1, 2013
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- Remarks to Transnistria:
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- Transnistria belongs to the
so-called “countries with limited recognition”, like e.g.
Abkhazia,
Kosovo,
Nagorno-Karabakh, Northern Cyprus, Palestine, Somaliland,
South Ossetia,
Taiwan, Western Sahara,
Crimea, Donetsk and Luhansk. All are either “claimed” or
“occupied” from another country.
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- Hence Transnistria is claimed
by
Moldova,
but declared 1990 its independence and is supported herein by
Russia.
That means for tourists that – with the exception of just a few – they
cannot expect much assistance from their home country if something
went wrong. Moldova permits a visit of Transnistria
without any
problem, is it from their territory or from the
Ukraine.
The official name of Transnistria is 'Pridnestrovian Moldavian
Republic – PMR'.
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- 001
8/22/2013: After the helpful border
- crossing in Bendery, the border town to
- Moldova, Emil adds the sticker of
our
- 179th country. The border officials watch
- with pleasure. Bendery is one of the few
- settlements on the western shore of the
- Dniester River
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- 002
As the only post-Soviet country,
- Transnistria bears still sickle and hammer
- in its red-green-red flag. Officially
- Transnistria is known as a breakaway
- state within Moldova and reads
- “Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic”
- (PMR)
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- 003
A large bust of an austere Lenin
- stands in front of the parliament building
- of Tiraspol, the capital with about
- 160’000 people (out of a total of barely
- 600’000). There was war of secession
- from November 1990 to July 1992
- between Moldova and Transnistria
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| August
22nd, 2013; 5.15pm: Coming from Moldova, all eyes are focused on our LandCruiser when we park at the border post of Bendery (also Bender) in
Transnistria (also called Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic, short PMR)
– a selfdeclared Republic, which broke 1990 away from
Moldova. It is a
small, 125 miles [202km] long strip of land with around 1‘377 sq.mi.
[3’567km²] squeezed in between Moldova and
Ukraine, almost always east
of the Dniester River with an own flag, own passports, own stamps, an
own currency – the Transnistria Ruble and own car licence plates. Like
Nagorno Karabakh and
Abkhazia they don’t have an own internet domain.
After the two mentioned states it is our third selfdeclared country,
which is not recognized by the international community that we shall
visit. It becomes our 179th
country. |
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004 At the bank of the
Dniester River –
- along the “25th October Street” – opposite
- the parliament building with the statue of
- Lenin is the "Monument Square" with a
- Soviet T-34 tank, an eternal flame, the
- “Memorial of Glory” .....
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005 ..... and a war memorial
for those
- 316 to 637 casualties who fell during the
- 1990-1992 Transnistrian war on both
- sides. Transnistria was supported mainly
- by Russia and the Ukraine while
Moldova
- was assisted by Romania
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006 The Russian-Orthodox
- “Church of the Nativity” – also
- known as “Cathedral of the Birth
- of Christ” – was built 1999
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| We feel
it: The customs officers are proud that we are interested in their
country. They speak a little German and English and are helpful in
facilitating our entry formalities. We pay a road tax of Leu 312
(Moldova currency MDL) (=US$25.50) and get an immigration card where
date and exact time of entry are duly noted. Should we stay longer than
three days, we will have to register in the capital Tiraspol. |
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- 007
Babushkas are repainting the bridge
- railing over the Dniester River. All
- Transnistria is being poshed-up for the
- approaching visit of the Patriarch of the
- Russian Orthodox Church,
- Kirill I of Moscow
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- 008
A tourist boat chugs down
- the Dniester River that is meandering
- picturesquely along Tiraspol
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- 009
Newly weds head in an adorned
- limousine towards the "Monument Square"
- at the Dniester River Park for a photo
- shooting. Famous places or even monu-
- ments are always privileged settings to
- commemorate the most beautiful day
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| When –
after completing our 1½ hours lasting entry procedure – we add
“Transnistria” to our country ribbon, the officers demonstrate us their
pleasure. How differently one can experience the very same border
crossing! Our friend Marco from Zurich who was recently here with his
bicycle has nothing good to tell.
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010
It gleams in splendid white: The
- “House of the Soviets”, built 1956 in
- Stalin's Empire style, houses today the
- City Council of Tiraspol as well as the
- authorities of the country
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011
The coat of arms of Tiraspol
- with the “Cathedral of the Birth of
- Christ” in the background. The
- city was founded 1792
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012 Public tribute to
deceased
- important personalities in Tiraspol
(?)
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| Since
early morning we are in contact with Tom, an American, who guides us via
SMS to his hostel in the capital Tiraspol, where we made yesterday a
reservation by phone for a double room. When we arrive at 6pm at the
guest house, it is a kind of a shock to see the ramshackle house in the
neglected garden. Inside it does not look any better either. Here we are
supposed to stay? |
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013 The two policemen stop us at the
- "Monument Square". They are not happy
- with our papers. We understand not one
- single word. After they phone around we
- get green light and are even allowed to
- park there. As of shortly Transnistria was
- “well known” and infamous for its
- corruption – we cannot complain at all
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014 The statue of Generalissimo
- Alexander Suvorov in the central square
- – the founder of Tiraspol in 1792 – was
- erected 1979 in commemoration
- of his 250th anniversary
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015 Trasnistria is an about
250 mile
- long narrow strip of land (1’377 sq.mi.),
- sandwiched between Moldova and the
- Ukraine. It introduced its own car number
- plates and contrary to Abkhazia its
own
- currency (Transnistria Ruble). Own stamps
- do exist for internal use, but otherwise
- Moldova stamps have to be taken
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| And our
LandCruiser with all our belongings should be parked unguarded further
away on an empty space in front of a lonely teardown house? And this for
US$40 a night! Tom reduces the price by a third when he sees the
disappointment on our faces. But we have already decided: We are not
going to stay here! “I would not even have stayed for free”, I say still
appalled to Emil when we return to our LandCruiser, determined to find
another accommodation. |
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- 016
The Zeleny Market (central market)
- in Tiraspol is piled up with farming
- products. There is nothing left to desire
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- 017
Honey from own bee hives,
- analog of the Caucasus, is offered
- in glasses of all sizes
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- 018
In the meat department
- inside the market hall we
- find especially pork
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| “Nice
to see you” welcomes us the charming lady at the reception of the Hotel
Timoty in Tiraspol, where we inquire about the room rates. It
is one of the few
times that we are greeted so warmly at a hotel! Without breakfast we get
for US$50 a luxury suite with a sleeping room, a separate office with Wifi, a big fridge, a Jacuzzi bathtub and for our LandCruiser safe hotel
parking. Why not treating oneself to a bit of luxury? |
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- 019
Fresh milk products are never lacking
- on these public markets. They have not
- changed much since the Soviet time.
- We remember well the year 1995 when
- we drove through the new Central Asian
- countries and Russia
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- 020
Sweet and tasty strawberries
- and raspberries, juicy apples – this and
- a lot more is available at the central
- market in Tiraspol
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- 021
As sales pitch suitable (but a big
- wobbly): Eggs arranged to
pyramids at
- Tiraspol market
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| Tanja,
the administrator, speaks perfectly English and is the warmth in person.
After three days she also takes care of the compulsory registration at
the immigration, invites us for a breakfast, offers us the hotel washing
machine for free, gives us the tip which bank has an ATM that releases
US$100 per day (hotels are paid in US$ cash, but for the daily
necessities the Transnistria Ruble is used) and recommends us
interesting sights and good restaurants. We feel so at ease that it
becomes 10 days until we are able to break away! (The
Visa-ATM is on the northern side of 25. October Street,
between Lenin Street and Strada
Cotovschi) |
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022
Breakfast in our apartment at Hotel
- Timoty in Tiraspol: Own "office", bathroom
- with spa, separate dormitory, refrigerator,
- wifi and parking for $50. Tim's Tiraspol
- Hostel (double $40) we cannot recommend,
- because it’s definitively highly overpriced
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023
No, Liliana does not have a
- problem to overcome the huge jug
- of beer. Otherwise Emil would
- always be prepared to help out!
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024 Daily street market in
front of
- the Sheriff supermarket in Tiraspol.
- Liliana buys our apples always at the
- babushka with the green headscarf
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| We like
Tiraspol at the first go: Alleys lined with trees, spacious squares,
remarkable little traffic, free parking spaces everywhere and a tempting
central market à la russe with fresh farm products like curd, butter,
cottage cheese, yoghurt and eggs that are piled elaborately to pyramids.
Honey from own beehives, but also vegetable and fruits right up to
raspberries and strawberries are not missing. Nothing is lacking. At the
meat hall nearby mostly pork is sold, recognizable by the pork heads
staring glassy-eyed at us.
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025
Almost an African looking scene: For
- 15 PMR-Rubles (US$1.35) we cross the
- Dniester river. It is the easiest way from
- Tiraspol to Chiţcani near the Moldavian
- border where the beautiful "Noul Neamţ"
- Monastery Complex is situated
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026
The first thing that greets us in the
- splendid "Noul Neamţ" Monastery Complex
- is this imposing tall belfry (230 ft.)
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027 Huge billboards announce
the visit
- of the Patriarch of the Russian Orthodox
- Church, Kirill I of Moscow, on September
- 8th and 9th, 2013 in Transnistria. Also at
- the "Noul Neamţ" Monastery Complex in
- Chiţcani monks are busy cleaning,
- painting and gardening
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happens at the “Monument Square” near the bridge over the Dniester
River: A policeman stationed there at
a police booth has sighted
us and follows us with his motorbike. He makes us signs to stop.
“Documents” he orders. He studies them annoyingly long, but seems not to
be satisfied. He takes out his cellular phone and spends an eternity
talking, whereas he mentions over and over the name “Emil Schmid” – the
only two words we could understand. |
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028
While the front of the “Dormition
- of the Mother of God” church at the
- "Noul Neamţ" Monastery Complex in
- Chiţcani catches our eyes mainly by its
- five blue onion shaped towers .....
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029
..... its interior with the altar
- captivates for its overwhelming
- rich work of art .....
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030 ..... and its beautiful
wall paintings
- that seem almost lifelike
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| Having
already heard and read some stories about their infamous corruption, we
are ready for the worst. But nothing the like happens. He lets us go. To
our surprise he even shows us a spot where we may park just beside the
„Monument Square, not far from the Soviet T-34 tank, from the „Memorial
of Glory“ with the eternal flame and from the war monument for the 3l6 -
637 men who lost their lives on both sides during the Transnistria war
between 1990-1992. On the other side of the road is the parliament
building with the tall statue of Lenin – along with the sickle and
hammer in the red-green-red flag of Transnistria it is a further example
from the old Soviet era – regretting bygone times? |
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- The “Ascension of Jesus Cathedral” belongs also to the "Noul
Neamţ" Monastery Complex in Chiţcani. The interior with its
fascinating
- frescoes and icons appears bright and
pleasant. The monastery was closed in 1962 when
Moldova was part of
the Soviet Union.
- It was then used as a hospital, a storehouse and a makeshift
museum. When it was reactivated in 1990 it first underwent renovation
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031
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033
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is always something happening at the scenic Dniester River. On the
bridge, “Babushkas” are busy in giving the railing a new coat of white
paint. The Patriarch of the Russian Orthodox Church, Kirill I of Moscow,
is expected. Therefore, the whole city is pepped up. We watch the
tourist boat chugging up and down the river and enjoy the newly weds
that are arriving in their beautifully decorated white limousines for a
photo shooting. |
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034
"Noul Neamţ" is again a working
- monastery. Raisins, fruits and vegetable
- grow under the care of the monks
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035
Almost ripe to harvest: Rose hips
- (Rosa canina) along the road.
Unfortu-
- nately we are no tea drinkers
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036 Whatever this rusty sign
in Chiţcani
- says, it is from the old Soviet era and
- stood probably once for a kolkhoz
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| The day
we are taking the little ferry crossing the Dniester River for 15 Rubles
(US$1.35) to the other side, it is sunny but very windy. The scene at
the small river crossing has almost a nostalgic African touch. After a
couple of miles through a small bush road we are standing in front of
the Noul Neamţ Monastery Complex in Chiţcani. What awaits us is simply
overwhelming. We were never prepared to find such a treasure of
churches, art work, frescoes, icons and wall paintings that seem almost
lifelike. For hours, we admire the exuberant elaborate decor. We are the
only visitors.
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037
Can it be more peaceful? Sunbathing
- on a sandbar of the quiet Dniester River at
- Bendery
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038
In the border town of Bendery is
- the restored Alexander Nevsky Church
- with golden onion shaped towers
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039 The towers and
encircling walls of
- the citadel of Bendery form an imposing
- silhouette at the border town to
Moldova.
- The fortress was originally built in the
- 15th century by Ştefan cel Mare (Stefan
- the Great) as a small wooden fort and
- was enlarged afterwards gradually
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monks are at work. Preparations for the upcoming visit of Patriarch
Kirill I of Moscow are under way also here. The monks do everything
themselves: Cleaning, painting and gardening. It is again
a fully functional monastery. Also
vegetable and fruits are growing under the care
of the friars. Tempting are the huge ripe blue raisins ready to pick, which
hang heavily from the pergola. The monastery was closed in 1962 when
Moldova was part of the Soviet Union. It was then used as a hospital, a
storehouse and a makeshift museum. In 1990 it was reactivated and first
underwent renovation. Deeply impressed we return in the evening to our
hotel. |
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- The fortress of Bendery (called Tighina in Moldavian) is over 600
years old.
- Its location offers a wide spread view over the Dniester River and
the vast open land
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040
Entrance to the Bendery Fortress:
- To the right the “Pantheon of Russian Glory”
- with busts of several “outstanding”
- personalities
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041
The double headed eagle at the
- entrance to the fortress appears also on
- the Bendery flag, but has noticeable simi-
- larities with today’s Russian coat of arms
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042 Time for a souvenir
photo
- of Liliana in front of a cannon
- from the 19th century
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is one more sight in the local region that we want to visit before we
leave Transnistria. The historic citadel of Bendery, the border town to
Moldova that reigns over the city with its turrets and defence walls,
and from where one enjoys a sweeping view over the Dniester River and
the vast open land. The over 600 years old fortress was originally
built by Stefan the Great in the 15th century as a small wooden fort
that was enlarged gradually. Especially impressive is the clean and well
dotted museum that shows us a part of history with its relief, dioramas,
and a torture chamber with its terrible methods.
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- The clean and well dotted museum within the Bendery Fortress shows
us a part of history
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043
Diorama of a military camp north
- of the Bendery fortress
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A model of the medieval fortress
- of Bendery respectively Tighina
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045
Diorama of the storm by the Russian
- army of the Bendery
Fortress in 1770
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| Who is
waiting for us when in the late afternoon we return to our hotel? It is
the local TV, organized by Tanja. We don’t mind giving an interview
about our positive experiences in Transnistria. We would have loved to
stay also for the Independence Day of September 2nd. But the hotel is
fully booked for this day since a long time. |
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046
The good-looking Ottoman guard
- from the 16th century attracts Liliana. She
- cannot resist posing for a picture with him
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- Just out of here! In the torture chamber we get geese pickles
- also without being able to understand the Russian instructions
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047
“The Iron Maiden” (or also
- “The Virgin of Nuremberg”): The
- victim was locked up inside
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048 Nail chair: The victim
- was strapped to it
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Therefore on September 1st, 2013, we say good-bye to Tanja. Without
doubt, she contributed a lot from the first day onwards that we had an
interesting and relaxed time in Transnistria. But also the previously so
notorious police have shown us only their best side. When we drive
through the city of Tiraspol towards the Moldavian border, preparations
for the festivities are already on the way: Tribunes are erected and
people are busy decorating the city. |
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049
According to the relief in the
- museum (picture #044) there were
- normal houses in the inner court yard
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050
The balistrarias at this end of
- the fortress point to the Dniester River
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051 Sweeping view from one
of the
- Bendery fortress towers. Next to our
- parked LandCruiser a newly wed couple
- has their photos taken from all sides
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-
- The "Greater"-Middle East trip 2012/13:
- Sharjah/Dubai/1st Traveler's Festival/Emirates
National Auto Museum - UAE with
car Nov. 2012 to Jan. 2013 - part 1
- Western UAE - Liwa - United Arab Emirates with car in January 2013 - part 2
- Oman 2013 - Part 1 - February
2013: Musandam Peninsula
- Oman 2013 - Part 2 - February
2013: Sohar - Muscat - Rustaq - Nizwa
- Oman 2013 - Part 3 - March
2013: Sur - East Coast - Island of Masirah - Dhofar
- Oman 2013 - Part 4 - March
2013: Salalah & Surroundings (Dhofar) - Nizwa
- Oman 2013 - Part 5 - March 2013: Western Hajar
Mountains
- Al Ain, Eastcoast & Ras al Khaima - United
Arab Emirates with our car in April 2013 -
part 3
- Iran -
Part 1: Ferry Port Bandar Abbas-Shiraz-Persepolis-Pasargad (between Persepolis and Yazd)
– May 2013
- Iran -
Part 2: Pasargad
(excl.)-Yazd-Esfahan – May 2013
- Iran -
Part 3: Esfahan
(excl.)-Chelgerd-Hamadan-Sanandaj-Orumiyeh-Turkey Border
– May 2013
- Turkey: Iran Border-Esendere-Hakkari-Van-Doğubayazıt-Kars-Ardahan-Hopa-Georgia
Border – May/June 2013
- Georgia -
Part 1: Turkey Border-Ajaria-Gori-Tbilisi-Kakheti-Azerbaijan
Border – June 2013
- Azerbaijan: Georgia Border-Balakən-Şəki-Lahıç-Baku-Xınalıq-Quba-Laza-Baku-Gəncə-Georgia Border – June 2013
-
Georgia - Part 2a: Azerbaijan Border-Tbilisi-Armenia
Border –
June/July 2013
- Armenia -
Part 1: Georgia Border-Haghpat-Dilijan-Sevan-Tatev-Goris-Nagorno Karabakh – July 2013
- Nagorno-Karabakh:
Armenia-Stepanakert-Gandzasar-Martakert-Tigranakert-Tnjri-Shoushi-Armenia – July
- Armenia -
Part 2:
Nagorno Karabakh-Goris-Tatev-Noravank-Khor Virap-Echmiadzin-Yerewan-Geghard-Gyumri-Georgia Border – July 2013
- Georgia -
Part 2b: Armenia Border-Ninotsminda-Tbilisi-Mtskheta-Kazbegi-Kutaisi-Zugdidi –
July 2013
- Georgia -
Part 3a:
Zugdidi-Swaneti-Zugdidi-Abkhazia Border – July/August 2013
- Abkhazia: Georgia-Sukhumi-Tsebelda-Novyy Aton-Lake
Ritsa-Gagra-Pitsunda-Georgia – August
2013
- Georgia - Part 3b: Abkhazia Border-Poti-Ferry to Ilyichevsk/Ukraine
– August 2013
- Ukraine - Part a: Ilyichevsk-Odessa-Bilhorod Dnistrovsky-Moldova Border
– August 2013
- Moldova - Part a:
Ukraine Border-Cǎuşeni-Transnistria
Border – August 2013
- Moldova - Part b:
Transnistria Border-Chişinǎu-Orheiul
Vechi-Ukraine Border –
September 2013
- Ukraine - Part b: Moldova Border-Odessa Port-Container/Freighter
to Praia/Cape Verde
– September 2013
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