Tajikistan Map

 

 

               Map of Central Asia

latest picture: June 27, 2016

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085  We have breakfast with view to the Nurek

reservoir, situated about 50 miles [80km] from

Dushanbe. We are on our ”southern“ way to the

famous Pamir Highway, i.e. via Kulob because the

Khaburabot Pass (Sagirdasht Pass) – the M41

via Tavildara – is said to be in a miserable shape

086  After Dangara we pass rolling

heat-baked hills in the ”southern Tajik

wheatfields“ for some miles

087  At Kurbon Shaid (Pingan), about

18 miles [30km] before Kulob, lies the

new looking Hulbuk Fortress Palace –

a reconstruction from the 11th century

088  From Kulob the road climbs up to

Shurabad, a crossover of 6'500 ft. [1’980m]

to the very long Panj valley. This is where the

overheating problem of our LandCruiser restarts.

Emil sucks in fuel, cools the carburetor with water

and fixes an additional fan next to the carburetor

089  Sweeping view from the Shurabad

mountain pass down to the valley

towards Kulob (green left at the back)

090  Huge trucks, generating a lot of dust,

and locals on donkeys are on the Shurabad

pass ascent. Many trucks tow

additionally a huge trailer

091  After the Shurabad pass we are

encircled near Chilishtak by an imposing

rocky mountain scenery

092  Chinese trucks, partly with trailers,

cross us on the dusty road to the Panj river.

They supply Tajikistan with goods from

China and are real masters in managing

the most critical passages

093  Scenery at the Panj river after descending

from the height of 6'500 ft. [1’980m] in Shurabad

to 2'700 ft. [825m]. On the other side of the

relatively narrow river is Afghanistan. It’s possible

to drive along the river for about 415 miles

[670km] (incl. Wakhan area) – in Khorog we

have seen enough of it after 225 miles [360km]

094  One of the adobe hamlets set among

patches of greenery on the Afghanistan side

during our 225 miles [360km] long drive along

the Panj border river on a mostly dreadful

track and through deep and narrow gorges

095  Part of the recreation center “Chorchaman”

that was erected at the little village of Patkunob

before Kalaikhum. This is already since 43 miles

[70km] (and will remain until the Kyrgyzstan

border) the autonomous province of Gorno

Badakhshan (GBAO), where a permit is

compulsory that is available either from the

consulate together with the visa or otherwise

from OVIR in Dushanbe (38.57126/68.79722)

096  The fuel pumps in Kalaikhum are

empty or they don’t work. Fuel is sold

along the road either from tankers,

jerrycans or barrels. We bunker

21 gallons [80 liters] from jerrycans

097  On the Afghanistan side of the Panj

river grain harvesting is in full swing. The

yellow grain fields are in sharp contrast to

the deep green trees surrounding them

098  On her discovery tour Liliana almost

steps on this well camouflaged cricket. The long

spike at the back is for laying eggs (ovipositor)

099  After the mouth of the Vanj Valley into the

Panj River – halfway between Kaleikhum and

Rushan – golden fields of grain reaching up to the

slopes dominate the scenery on the Afghan side

100  Nature is exploding along the water

ways. Wherever we look, carpets of pink

flowering bushes cover the plain …..

101  ….. on this idyllic spot our Land

Cruiser gives us trouble once more.

For the umpteenth time, Emil is cooling

down the carburetor with water …..

102  ….. while Liliana takes the

opportunity to explore the surroundings

and enjoy the beauty of nature

103  About 9 miles [15km] before Yarkh

Lake or 27 miles [44km] before the “city” of

Rushan, the narrow valley opens slightly and

we find a small and levelled camping spot

squeezed between high rising mountain cliffs …..

104  ….. on the other side of the Panj river,

on the Afghan side, stand two fully loaded

trucks next to adobe dwellings and a white

tent. A military camp? This road leads in

560 miles [900km] to Kabul

105  We follow further the Panj river.

Due to the snowmelt it became a

dangerous looking brownish “monster”,

carrying everything down

106  Short of Rushan, the road passes the

idyllic treelined Yarkh Lake, formed naturally

by the Panj river – probably the prettiest

place to live in this otherwise forbidding region

107  View towards the remote, wild and

adventurous Bartang Valley, which access

is shortly after the big settlement of Rushan.

It’s possible to drive from here by 4x4

directly to Karakul lake

108  A landscape that could be in

Switzerland – at the continuation

along the Panj river to Khorog

109  At the Pamir Lodge in Khorog, we

meet the two cyclists Kaya and Lauro, father

and son from Switzerland. They are ready

 to take off to the next Pamir Highway section

110  Two inseparable little friends from

Khorog. Khorog ist the capital of the

autonomous province Gorno Badakhshan

(GBAO) with about 30’000 people (2003)

111  Road sign to Osh (452 miles)

[728km] in Kyrgyzstan on the Pamir

highway. Still a long way to go!

112  It is impressive how tall flowers

can grow also in such alpine altitudes

(above ±10’000 ft.) [±3’000m]

113  Also delicate bush roses seem

comfortable on these heights

114  The pink flowers grow on the ground

compactly around a garland of leaves

115  Our LandCruiser climbs along the

barren high Rushan range to higher altitudes

116  A glittering mountain torrent makes its

way downhill, producing greenery on its sides

– a sight that appears over and over again

117  A suspension bridge of the old style, built

only from twigs. Two courageous ladies cross the

Gunt river to get from their home to the road

118  A timeless sight: Mountain

scenery near Vankala

119  Where there is water, there is life. Patches

of green along a little torrent in a field of scree

120  The dwelling is pretty modest, but the

satellite disk on the roof is not missing

The Pamir region attracts each year cyclists, bikers, car travelers and hikers – it is still a real challenge.

Here everyone stops when crossing each other and shares information. This was still the case between 1989 and 1993 in Africa

when we crossed from North to South. Nowadays, this does not happen anymore, nobody needs obviously the others advice

121  Two German bikers near Jelandy

hotsprings. We spend one night together

at an altitude of 11’800 ft. [3’600m]

122  A German hiker. He walks

around 30 miles [50km] daily

123  Two English cyclists, who are on their

way from Osh via Pamir to Dushanbe. They have

to deal constantly with the strong headwind

124  The idyllic alpine pond-dotted scenery

before the ascent to the Koy-Tezek Pass

(14’016 ft.) [4’272m] in direction Murgab

125  A marmot is warming up in the sun.

It has not yet spotted us!

126  In a beautiful setting between a clear

mountain stream and snow covered peaks:

The village of Jelandy with its hot springs

127  This virgin mountain scenery with its

wide river valley remembers us of Alaska,

which we explored in summer 1985

128  As our LandCruiser steadily gains height

over the Koy-Tezek-Pass, glacier-wrapped

mountains appear at every corner

129  The monument at the roadside of M41

– Pamir Highway – says that we are entering

on the eastern side of the Koy-Tezek Pass

the district of Murgab

130

131

132

Our LandCruiser is rolling towards the western Pamir high plateau with its many lakes (Bulun-Kul,

Yashil-Kul, Sassyk-Kul, Tuz-Kul, etc.), which lies on an altitude of almost 13’000 ft. [4’000m]

The village of Alichur with its white washed

flat houses, about 60 miles [100km] before

Murgab, lies south of the North Alichur Range

133  It gets increasingly greener the closer

we come to Murgab. Halfway between

Alichur and Murgab, there is the Nayzatash

Pass to cross: 13’573 ft. [4’137m]

134  Nomads have put up their yurt

for the summer months in this isolated

and harsh environment

135  Again “greenery” shortly before

the final descent to Murgab

136  The Murgab valley with its green

riverside pasture sets off vividly against

the rugged rock walls

137  Postcard-perfect: Panoramic view

across the green Murgab river valley with

the first houses of Murgab and the bleak

mountain range in the back

138  The small town of Murgab, on an

altitude of 11’732 ft. [3‘576m] with a

population of 6‘500, where about 25%

are Pamiris (Tajiks) and 75% Kyrgyz

139  Our LandCruiser in front of the

nondescript tourist office in Murgab

140  Emil is waiting outside of Murgab’s

tourist office for the English speaking lady

who has been called by phone

141  Murgab’s white washed “box houses“

with the background of the bleak mountain

ridge evoke a bit a feeling of Arabia

142  A woman from the mountain village

of Murgab with her typical head scarf

143  A family is sitting outside its home

watching the village live, it is the only pass-time

144  They pass their time on the street (what

they are still able to do!): Children in Murgab

145  The most appealing village building in

Murgab is its white washed mosque along

the Murgab-Tashkurgan road

146  A cemetery of a special kind: The tombs

in Murgab are made of adobe – also along the

Murgab-Tashkurgan road (eastern end of village)

147  The stone mosque at the river side

in Murgab with its two brick minarets

148  Not a colorful market: The bazaar in

Murgab consists of a row of unattractive container

149  Clean, orderly and well-stocked:

A food container at Murgab‘s bazaar

150  Two market women gossiping at the

Murgab bazaar while waiting for customers

Faces of children in Murgab

151

152

153

154  Saturday at the riverside in Murgab:

Girls are busy scrubbing carpets …..

155  ….. “Somebody has to supervise

the ladies!“ says the boy on the pushcart

156  ….. laundry day: Work is

easier in company of friends

157  Two traditional guest yurts – dome

tents used by nomads – in front of the

Pamir Hotel in Murgab

158  The appealing interior of a yurt: The

framework is made from wood, the walls are

covered with carpets with different motifs, the

atmosphere is warm and welcoming …..

159  ….. the roof opening of a yurt

160  Murgab seen from the river. There is

no electricity in the village, therefore also any

fuel pumps. Fuel is traded in barrels, buckets,

jerrycans and with funnels. Only a few

have a generator

161  There is no hectic in Mugab with

its character of a “pioneer“ village. Daily life

in the simple houses happens quietly always

in the same framework

162  Matching entirely with nature:

An adobe house at the foot of the

mountain range in Murgab

163  The white mountain peaks that rise

east of Murgab belong already to China

164  The fence along the high-altitude

highway marks the “neutral zone“ to China.

It was built by China and forms a kind of

security zone from China. The actual border

however lies up to 12 miles [20km] more

to the North resp. to the East of the fence

165  At the climb to the

15’272 ft. [4‘655m] high Ak-Baital

pass we encounter snow for the first

time again since Turkey

(May 30th, 2013). Liliana wants

once again to know how it feels

166  Before reaching Ak-Baital pass

(= White Horse) on an altitude

of 15’272 ft. [4‘655m]

167  We reached the highest drivable

point of the Pamir Highway: The Ak-Baital

pass with a height of 15’272 ft. [4‘655m]

– GPS shows 15’299 ft. [4’663m]

168  Emil and our LandCruiser on the

“Roof of the Tajikistan-World“, on the

15’272 ft. [4‘655m] high Ak-Baital pass

169  The high mountain region around Ak-Baital

pass is bleak and entirely uninhabited. Not a

single plant is growing; view in direction Murgab

170  We seal our achievement of having

reached the highest point of the Pamirs

with a remembrance picture

171  A range of colors in brown-red pastel

shades: The high mountain scenery of the

Pamir Highway towards Lake Karakul

The wonder of nature: Three flowers, which brave the harsh alpine climate in all its forms, have unfold their full beauty

173

174

175  The azure-blue ribbon at the foot

of the snow-capped mountain chain belongs

to slightly salty Lake Karakul. It lies at

3‘914m altitude and is frozen until May

176  Glacier wrapped mountains of the

Tanymas Range west of Lake Karakul

(altitude 12’841 ft.) [3‘914m]

177  A little pond on the eastern

side of Lake Karakul

178  We set up camp in good weather at Lake

Karakul at an altitude of 12’841 ft. [3‘914m],

surrounded by the fascinating mountain peaks

of North and East Pamir …..

179  ….. in the light of the setting sun

our LandCruiser is shining beautifully

against the backdrop of the white

mountain peaks in the South …..

180  ….. then the sun sets and

simultaneously clouds approach from

the south. It’s our last night in the

remoteness of the alpine Pamir region

181  The sky is shrouded in clouds

when we break off in the morning

our camp at Lake Karakul

182  This road monument shows that

we are now leaving Murgab and hence

Tajikistan in direction Kyrgyzstan

183  With a couple of snow flakes Tajikistan

waves us good-bye on June 27th, 2016, – a

country that became one of the highlights of our

almost 32 years of around the world history

Next website of our 2nd Central and North Asia trip 2016 to Russia:

Kyrgyzstan – from Tajikistan border in Pamir to Kazakhstan border at Karkara – June 27th to August 9th, 2016

or:

Back to the 1st part of the Tajikistan trip: Tajikistan Part 1 – May 31st to June 18th, 2016, from Uzbekistan border to Dushanbe

The African trip 2013-16:

CapeVerde: Santiago/Praia part 1 – November18th to December 13th, 2013

CapeVerde: Fogo – Dezember13th to 23rd, 2013

CapeVerde: Brava – December 23rd to 26th, 2013

Cape Verde: Santiago/Praia part 2 – December 26th, 2013 to February 28th, 2014

Cape Verde: São Nicolau – February 28th to March 13th, 2014

Cape Verde: São Vicente/Mindelo part 1 – March 13th to 20th, 2014

Cape Verde: Santo Antão/Eastern side part 1 – March 20th to April 7th, 2014

Cape Verde: Santo Antão/Western side part 2 – April 7th to 10th, 2014

Cape Verde: São Vicente/Mindelo part 2 – April 10th to 29th, 2014

Namibia Part 1 – from Walvis Bay to Windhoek

Angola Part 1 – September 26th to October 4th, 2014

Angola Part 2 – October 4th to 22nd, 2014

Namibia Part 2 – from Windhoek to the Angolan border, back again and on to South Africa

South Africa Part 1 – from Namibia border to Capetown – January 22nd to February 23rd, 2015

3rd Major Repair of our LandCruiser FJ60 - 1982  (due to two broken sideshafts)

South Africa Part 2 – from Capetown to Tsitsikamma National Park – February 24th to March 13th, 2015

South Africa Part 3 – from Addo National Park to the Lesotho border – March 13th to April 7th, 2015

Lesotho – April 7th to 15th, 2015

South Africa Part 4 – from the Lesotho to the Swaziland border – April 15th to 23rd, 2015

Swaziland – April 23rd to 28th, 2015

South Africa Part 5 – from the Swaziland to the Botswana border  – April 28th to May 15th, 2015

Botswana

Zimbabwe

Mozambique

Malawi

Armed Robbery in Malawi on July 31st/August 1st, 2015

Tanzania

Kenya

Ethiopia Part 1 – from Kenya to Djibouti – October 25th to November 18th, 2015

Djibouti – October 18th to 27th, 2015

Ethiopia Part 2 –  from Djibouti to Sudan – November 27th to December 9th, 2015

Sudan – December 9th, 2015 to January 8th, 2016